When Peter Hessler first arrived in the remote Chinese river town of Fuling, the only way to get there was by boat. There was only one other foreigner living in town, and a trip to the market could cause a sensation among the people as they had almost never seen non Chinese visitors. It was 1996, and Hessler arrived as a Peace Corps teacher and stayed two years. Recently, he went back for a visit to explore the changes that the Three Gorges Dam has made in Fuling. Much of the old city is under water, but there are ways to glimpse the past. Hessler has written about the trip in, and in his book .